All About Pearls

At Cox & Power we have long been captivated by pearls. Unique, natural, enigmatic, in recent years they have re-emerged across fashion, design and contemporary jewellery, breaking out of their classic status and becoming appreciated not for their formality, but for their individuality, worn by all genders and for any occasion.

Pearls encourage a different approach to design, one that works with their natural qualities – which is why we love working with them and seeking out the more unusual shapes and colours. As tastes have shifted towards materials with character, provenance and a connection to the natural world, pearls have come into their own once again.

Origins and Characteristics

The attributes of a pearl are influenced by factors such as lustre, surface quality, shape, size and colour, yet even pearls of the same variety retain their own distinct character. Unlike faceted gemstones, which are cut into standardised or fancy shapes, pearls are entirely formed by nature, from perfectly round to softly asymmetrical and baroque forms.

Pearls form when an oyster or mussel creates layers of nacre – also known as mother-of-pearl – to protect its delicate tissue from irritants that enter the shell. Truly round pearls are rare and it can take years to put together a strand of matching pearls that share the same colour, lustre, shape and size. Drop and oval shapes for earrings are all the more special because finding a matching pair is no easy task.

Although pearls can be dyed and colour-treated, we create our jewellery with natural pearls, celebrating the array of beautiful colours produced in nature.

Tahitian Pearls

Akoya Pearls

South Sea Pearls

Freshwater Pearls

Keshi Pearls

Baroque pearls

Tahitian Pearls are celebrated for their naturally dark colours and rich peacock overtones. The only truly black pearls, they can display shades of green, silver, blue and aubergine. This dramatic palette offers a striking alternative to traditional white pearls and creates beautiful contrast within both gold and silver jewellery.

Akoya Pearls are what many people picture when they think of a classic strand. Cultivated primarily in the seas around Japan, they are renowned
for their lustre, round shape and creamy white or cool silvery tones. Their mirror-like reflective surface has made them a cornerstone of pearl jewellery for generations.

South Sea Pearls are admired for their impressive size, stunning colours and soft, satiny lustre. Cultivated in Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines, they are among the largest cultured pearls in the world and found in white, silver and truly golden colours. We are particularly drawn to South Sea Keshi pearls whose organic form and exceptional lustre make them especially captivating.

Freshwater Pearls have almost infinite variety – from tiny seed pearls, oval or round, to very large, highly individual baroque shapes. From purple to pale silver, peach, pink and white, their versatility has made them particularly popular among contemporary jewellers, where unusual shapes and the incredible range of natural colours are celebrated.

Keshi Pearls are rare, irregularly shaped pearls, spontaneously produced by the oyster or mussel and occur in Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls.

Baroque Pearls are prized for their unique, irregular shapes and occur in all kinds of pearl. They may be any colour, shape or size and often have interesting surface textures.

Cortez Pearls, from the Sea of Cortez in Mexico, are rare, and found in colours from white through bronze and black with rainbow or intense rich coloured overtones.

Caring for your Pearls

Pearls are perfect to be worn regularly, but they do benefit from a little extra care. Fortunately, keeping them looking their best is simple:

Store your pearls separately from other jewellery, as contact with metal and gemstones may damage the fragile surface. Keep them in a box, preferably wrapped carefully in a soft fabric.

Always put your pearls on last – after applying cosmetics, sunscreen, hairspray or perfume, as the chemicals in these products can affect the surface of the pearl, as well as the silk they are strung on, over time.

Although they come from water, pearls are not for wearing in the bath or shower – or the swimming pool – as detergents and chemicals will not be kind to them. Avoiding direct sunlight, UV light or high temperatures for long periods will help to protect them.

After wearing, gently wipe your pearls with a soft cloth to remove any traces of skin oils or beauty products as the acid in skin can attack the pearl surface and damage the lustre. Use only a dry soft cloth to buff the pearls or, only if absolutely necessary, dampen the cloth very slightly with a small amount of water and natural soap (avoiding the silk and knotting).

It is advisable to restring pearls every year subject to wear. Look out for fraying near the clasp or in the knots between the pearls. If unsure, please get in touch and we can check for you.

Pearls benefit from being worn and enjoyed and regular wear helps maintain the beautiful lustre that makes them so distinctive, making them one of the few gems that genuinely prefer not to spend their entire lives tucked away in a jewellery box.